How to Dress a Salad al Italiana
We all have special skills. As my friends and family know, mine is dressing a salad just so, ‘al Italiana.’
Now, it is easy to get into a disagreement about food in Italy. Even about dressing a salad. I was told, in no uncertain terms some years ago, to apply the oil first to coat the greens, then a bit of salt. Vinegar (if you really must) goes on last. Then, the other day, I was castigated in the most friendly way by friends insisting I must apply the vinegar first – because oil added first prevents it from combining with the greens – and then oil and salt last. Well, I tried it both ways and I am sticking to my original formula.
So, in the spirit of the season of Olio Nuovo in Italy, pull out your best oil and your preferred vinegar (fresh lemons in the south of Italy if you please, Balsamico in the north) and try your hand at a perfectly dressed salad — nothing left sopping around in the bottom of the bowl, but each leaf flavorful and moist.
I drizzle the oil in a spiral starting at the ouside rim of the bowl, and end with a flourish. The acid – vinegar or lemon – should be about half that of the oil. I have come to appreciate a few gratings of a good sea salt and pepper, but this is entirely a mater of taste. Enjoy!
In: Uncategorized · Tagged with: food, recipe
Positano By Night: Chic Bars We Love
Local Feel: Bar dei Mulini
This is the locals’ joint. Unsuspecting passersby might not notice it in the curve of the street in the main piazza as the people, cars, motorini, buses, and strollers rush past. But if you want gossip, go here, stand at the bar, and be a local — at least for a night.
Chic and Tranquil: Wine-Dark House
For a light lunch and excellent desserts as well as a delightful outdoor dining area in the shade, come here. Nicco’s family goes way back in the hospitality biz locally, and he knows what he is doing. The look and feel is sleek and modern.
In: Our Favorite Things · Tagged with: bars, nightlife
Viva La Bici!
Italians are mad for ‘bici’ – biking.
Go anywhere in your car on an early morning without rain and you will find them on the road – alone, in pairs, and by the hundreds. They wear the characteristic outfits – bright colors covered with logos and brandnames – and in cooler weather they sport insulating socks over their shoes that are a bit comical. Some don’t wear helmets, some are chatting into cell phones, most all are talking a mile a minute to a buddy right close by.
I, too, love bici and very much miss getting out there when I am working in Italy. That said, I am a bit picky about the roads I choose. For one thing, I don’t love the experience on Lake Como where you are squeezed between some combination of a wall, a building, a truck, a car, and/or a precipitous drop to the Lake. This happens in other places as well, of course, but the backdrop of the Lake makes it that much more dramatic.
Finding a quiet piece of road is a dream come true and we rely on good knowledgeable guides to get you there faster and more comfortably. If you are planning to bike here, however, plan on sharing the road with motorized vehicles on
a fairly busy road at least some of the time. Best to also plan on some real climbs and some real curves as well.
I am grateful to one of our treasured guests for leading me to MapMyRide, a particiuarly good tool for anticipating elevation changes. Road biking here is for the fit. That said, families and those who want something a bit less demanding will do well in the Lucca area (we like Chronos for bike rentals and guided tours), the Maremma and some of the self-guided tours on mountain bikes that are more manageable.
Cicloposse has a reasonable loop from their Pienza headquarters that most anyone can do. Even Chianti has its do-able routes if you have someone like Ramuzzi who knows what they are doing. Getting out and enjoying
Italy on a bike is exhilarating, and staying fit feels good and makes the abundant, fresh cuisine that much more enjoyable.
Viva la bici!
In: Italy Vacation Activities · Tagged with: Chianti, Lake Como, sports & activities, Tuscany
Fresh Mozzarella and Gracious Locals in Argegno
Argegno is settled in the crook of the hillside where the Torrente Telo widens and empties into Lake Como.
There were once mills on the backside of the main piazza but these are long gone. I have driven the road many, many times but never thought about the river or the mills because the road takes all my concentration. Mostly I am relieved to even reach Argegno for the sense of light and air and space after this one narrow strip of asphalt has squeezed through Comacina and other villages on its way here. In other words, it is a good place to stop.
The bread basket that accompanied my lovely lunch salad.
I have come to really appreciate the friendly local nature and the particular pleasures of Cafe Colombo and its companion restaurant La Piazzetta. When I have a break in my schedule, this is where I hide out for a big salad with fresh mozzarella that tastes of Naples even though I am looking at Lake Como. Not very locavore but a great lunch.
Their pizza looks delicious as does each plate that comes from the kitchen of this unassuming but fresh and contemporary family-run establishment. Then comes an afternoon of work in the chatty quiet atmosphere of Cafe Colombo. Today the incredibly gracious and easy-going Laura brought me a little espresso cup of hot chocolate with whipped cream just because, and then I had the pleasure of watching her share a similar treat with a delightful blonde girl of about six was keeping Laura company behind the bar. These people are friendly that way.
All of this inspires me to stay and reminds me to return whenever I am Lakeside.
In: Our Favorite Things · Tagged with: Lake Como villas, restaurant recommendation, travel guide
Como’s Finest Tartufo and Balsamico: Lunch at Navedano
Gatto Nero gets the press, but Navedano has the food.
Lunch was Tartufo Bianco d’Alba, mature enough finally to be worthwhile, explained the delightful Lila, daughter of the owner. “Close your eyes and let the perfume reach you,” she advised after the shavings landed softly like a blanket on the butter-coated hand-made tagliarelle. And reach me they did, with their pungent, woodsy unmistakable scent of ‘tartufo.’
A perfect salad followed, beautifully dressed with good oil and a fragrant balsamico. Unfortunately for me, the lemon trees were resting, so there would be none of their signature ‘lemon pie with foam’ with which to end. Next time.
The food at Navedano is delivered with precison and professionalism, but is borne of an absolute passion for fresh, seasonal ingredients that deliver ’sapore’. It was more than a lunch; it was an induction. And a lovely three hours at that.
In: Our Favorite Things · Tagged with: fine dining, Italy Travel Advice, Lake Como villas, seasons
The Seduction of Lake Como in October
Lake Como in October can be really lovely. Like today.
Bright sun with just enough warmth to justify leaving the coat behind but adding a cashmere around the neck for just the right of touch of Italian-style comfort and luxury. The mountains everywhere are green green, the water of the Lake is clear and inviting, and parking — even turning around — is made easy by the almost non-existent tour buses.
I write from Villetta di Laglio, a new Portfolio property we will be launching shortly. This is my second visit to the property to make sure we have fully vetted the experience. The light through the windows first thing this morning almost made it easy to get out of bed and there are beguiling views through the trees to the far lake shore. There is a certain seduction to have only a glinting view of the water, and it makes the full-on impression you get while out on the Lake itself that much more dramatic.
The location is incredibly convenient and I had a warming dish of Pizzocheri for dinner.
In: Italy Villa Rentals, Seasons In Italy · Tagged with: Lake Como villas, seasons
Spring Is the Time for Gelato, Giro and Gaddi
I am sincerely grateful for the warming sun of spring this year. The Magnolia trees are glorious and color has returned to the garden. Time to celebrate.
May brings celebrations galore to Italy…
Giro d’Italia: What a rush to watch the streamlined pack of bikers scream by during this challenging 3,482 km race spanning Italy from the Alps to Sicily. Stand back, though. These riders really move. On 11 May between 14:10 and 15:48, the cyclists race through San Casciano dei Bagni at 37-41 kms per hour.
Stay at: Al Borgo
The villa Al Borgo enjoys a panoramic position overlooking the Val di Chiana, through which the annual Giro d'Italia rides.
Antonio Gaddi is the 13th-century painter who created the exceptional frescos of Santa Croce depicting the Legend of the True Cross. In May you can actually climb the church scaffolding to see them up close. An exceptional opportunity.
Stay at: Casale di Fiesole
Casale di Fiesole in located just 20 minutes from Florence and its delightful Spring celebrations
I’ll be in Italy myself beginning 18 May and may re-route my itinerary to Florence for the Gelato Festival (24 – 29 May). Anyone care to join me?
P. S. Cantine Aperte is a coordinated event with 800 open cantinas on 29 May. Move fast on great last-minute airfares and tidy savings on Ca di Pesa & Podere due Scale available now.
In: Our Favorite Things · Tagged with: cultural activities, Florence, Italy events, seasons
Buona Pasqua: Italy’s Easter Traditions
My in-box filled up this week with colorful and playful email messages from friends and colleagues in Italy who are, by now, already out the door to celebrate the long Easter holiday. When it comes to holidays, the Italians do it right. They celebrate often, they celebrate with family and friends, and they celebrate by closing the doors of their businesses and unplugging their devices. Sounds wonderful, doesn’t it?
Easter week already began days ago, of course, but the lovely part is that Italians consider Monday a holiday as well. It is called ‘Pasquetta’ or ‘Little Easter.’ Usually Sunday is reserved for family, but there is an old cliche about Monday being celebrated with ‘whomever you like.’ We will not speculate on the hidden meaning, but appreciate the quintessentially Italian spirit of socializing and hospitality it implies.
The traditional Italian Easter breakfast includes a sweet bread called Colombe, which has a whole egg baked in!
Food, of course, is so much a part of the celebrations. For many, that means bringing a hostess gift of a Colombe, a special Easter cake with a whole egg baked inside. Or there are chocolates, and lots of them. All of the bars and pastry shops — even the Autogrill stops along every highway — are filled with brightly colored and elaborately packaged chocolates. In Italy, they do not recognize the Easter Bunny but like so many predominantly Catholic countries that adapted ancient Pagan traditions into their religious observances, eggs are everywhere.
We are surely ready for spring after a long and lingering New England winter. So we, too, are out the door and into the sunshine this weekend. Buona Pasqua to all who celebrate.
In: Seasons In Italy · Tagged with: holidays in Italy
Farewell to a Favorite: Casanuova San Casciano
We’re writing with a heavy heart to advise you that, after a wonderful Homebase Abroad collaboration of some 16 years, Casanuova San Casciano is being sold.
The villa will transfer to its new owners in August, yet a few rental weeks remain before its doors shut to outside guests. If you have ever thought of encouraging your family and friends to enjoy the particular pleasure that is a dinner prepared by Antonietta, or a long, slow morning watching the fog rise out of the Val d’Orcia, now is the time.
Dine al fresco or swim under the stars at Casanuova San Casciano before it closes its doors forever this summer.
The house remains free between 14 May and 2 July, and the owner has authorized us to offer a 20% reduction on any bookings for the weeks from 14 May until 18 June. Homebase Abroad will offer a complimentary farewell dinner during the weeks of 18 June – 2 July. We hope you will help us spread the word.
Join us in bidding a fond farewell to the forever-lovely Casanuova San Casciano.
In: Italy Villa Rentals · Tagged with: Tuscany Villas, Val d'Orcia
Conde Nast Traveler Recognizes Mara Solomon
The now-annual Villa Vacations issue of Conde Nast Traveler just landed on our desk and is coming soon to a newsstand near you.
Check out the list of Villa Specialists. I am honored to be included in this list of 44 incredibly committed and talented professionals.
This marks the sixth year Wendy Perrin and Kathryn Maier have vetted our industry and awarded the Villa Specialist designation to individuals – not companies as they note importantly – who are able to deliver both exceptional villas and the experiences – both on- and off-site – that define a successful trip.
The Tuscan farmhouse Podere I Troscioni is also featured in Conde Nast Traveler's new 2011 Villa Vacations issue.
In: Italy Villa Rentals · Tagged with: concierge service
